Dungeness crab ($10.95 a pound) was a different story. It requires a two-pound minimum order, as the whole crab is delivered to the table -- legs and body, and everything therein. While the legs were adequate, the interior was a mystery. Our server didn't offer any hints or tips on what might be delectable and, in the end, most of the crab was discarded: It was a terrible waste.
Crawfish (market price), too, was a conundrum, especially with little to no guidance. I was compelled to order and sample the restaurant's namesake, but was confused by the "mudbugs" scant offering of meat and finicky shells. Mussels ($9.95 a pound) and blue crab ($9.95 a pound) round out the rest of the items on the boil menu. In addition, a small handful of fried items are offered. A basket of fried catfish ($9.95 with Cajun fries) was good, offering generous chunks of beautifully light and delicate whitefish.
Diners who choose shellfish might want to add some bulk to their meal. A range of "sidekicks" can be added to your boil bag, such as corn (75 cents, half ear) or potatoes ($1.50). My pick was the pork, alligator (yes, you read gator), mango and jalape?o sausage slices ($2.95) which I found wonderfully juicy with just a hint of sweetness. Cajun fries ($3.95) and sweet potato fries ($4.95) also were acceptable. A welcome addition would be complimentary bread for mopping up those seasoning juices and messy hands. As things stand, the $1 surcharge for bread feels chintzy.
If cracking, snapping and slurping sound like words you don't want to associate with dinner, Bucket O' Crawfish probably isn't for you. There is no getting around the fact that this is a uniquely hands-on experience. For some though, getting to know your food in such an intimate manner will be an opportunity not to be missed, and for them Bucket O' Crawfish is worth a visit.
Salt Lake Tribune restaurant reviewer Stuart Melling blogs at gastronomicslc.com. Send comments about this review to firstname.lastname@example.org or post a response at facebook.com/tribremix.